Bridge
Bridge is the game other card games are measured against. Two partnerships hold an auction to decide who must win how many tricks and in what suit, and then one hand is turned face up and played by the opponent’s partner.
You are South and North is your partner. Bid first; once the auction closes, the dummy’s hand is exposed and play begins.
| Players | 4, in two fixed partnerships |
|---|---|
| Deck | One standard 52-card deck, 13 cards each |
| Play time | 30–50 minutes for a full rubber |
| Difficulty | Hard — the deepest game on this site |
How to play Bridge
Four players in two partnerships receive thirteen cards each from a full deck. Every hand has two distinct phases: an auction that settles what the contract will be, and the play in which the declaring side tries to fulfil it. This site plays Rubber Bridge, the casual form where a match runs until one side has won two games.
The auction
Beginning with the dealer, each player in turn either passes or makes a bid. A bid names a number of tricks over six and a strain: a trump suit, or No Trump. So 1♣ promises seven tricks with clubs as trump, and 7NT promises all thirteen with no trump at all. Each new bid must be higher than the last, either by level or — at the same level — by strain, with the strains ranked clubs, diamonds, hearts, spades, No Trump.
You may also call double against an opponent's contract to raise the stakes on it, and they may redouble in reply. Three consecutive passes end the auction. Crucially, the declarer is not whoever made the final bid but whoever on the winning side first named that strain — a point that surprises almost every new player.
The dummy
The player to the declarer's left leads the first card. Only then does the declarer's partner lay their entire hand face up on the table as the dummy, and from that moment they take no decisions at all. The declarer plays both hands, choosing the dummy's cards as well as their own. Every player can see thirteen of the fifty-two cards plus whatever has been played, which turns the second half of the hand into something much closer to a puzzle than a guessing game.
The play and the score
Tricks work conventionally: follow suit if you can, highest trump wins, or highest card of the led suit if no trump appears. What is unusual is the scoring, which is kept in two places. Tricks you bid and made score below the line — 20 each in clubs or diamonds, 30 in hearts or spades, 40 for the first No Trump trick and 30 thereafter. Reaching 100 below the line wins a game, and two games win the rubber.
Everything else goes above the line: overtricks, penalties when a contract fails, slam bonuses for bidding and making six or seven, honours, and a rubber bonus of 700 or 500 at the end. A side that has already won a game becomes vulnerable, which increases both its bonuses and its penalties for the rest of the rubber.
Strategy
Bridge has a century of published theory behind it, but four habits separate a competent beginner from a hopeless one.
Count your high-card points before you say anything
The standard valuation is four for an ace, three for a king, two for a queen, one for a jack — forty in the deck, ten per player on average. With twelve or more you have an opening bid. With twenty-five or so between you and your partner, a game-level contract is usually there. This arithmetic is unglamorous and it is most of what good bidding rests on.
Bidding is a conversation, not a claim
Table talk is forbidden, so bids carry information: which suits you are long in, roughly how strong you are, whether you want your partner to bid again. Beginners bid what they hope to make and then stop. Better players use their early bids to describe the shape of their hand and let the partnership arrive at the contract together.
Make a plan before you play to trick one
This is the classic error and it is fatal. Once the dummy appears, stop. Count the tricks you can see, work out where the missing ones must come from — a long suit to establish, a finesse to take, a ruff in the short hand — and only then play a card. Cards played before you have a plan cannot be taken back, and a single carelessly-spent entry to the dummy will sink a makeable contract.
Draw trumps unless you have a reason not to
With a solid trump suit, leading it repeatedly strips the defenders of their ability to ruff your winners. The reasons not to are specific: you need trumps in the dummy to ruff losers, or you are short of entries. If neither applies, pull them.
As a defender, lead your partner’s suit
If your partner bid a suit during the auction, they have length and strength in it and want it led. Opening with your own doubtful holding instead is how defences fall apart. Against No Trump, the fourth-highest card of your longest suit is the conventional opening lead for good reason: it gives your partner information rather than a guess.
Variants
- Duplicate Bridge — the tournament form. The same deals are played at every table and scores are compared, which removes most of the luck of the cards and leaves only the difference in skill.
- Chicago (four-deal Bridge) — a fixed four-hand cycle with set vulnerability, designed so a session finishes predictably rather than running until a rubber ends.
- Minibridge — the auction is replaced by a simple points comparison, so beginners can learn the play of the hand before tackling bidding conventions.
- Honeymoon Bridge — two-player adaptations, usually with a draw pile standing in for the missing hands.
- Bidding systems — not variants exactly, but the practical divide: Standard American, Acol in Britain, and Precision are different agreed languages for the same auction. The computer players here follow a loose Standard American.
Where Bridge came from
Bridge descends directly from Whist, the dominant English card game of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, whose rules Edmond Hoyle had codified as early as 1742. The transitional game appears in the 1880s under the name Biritch, or Russian Whist, and it introduced the two innovations that define Bridge: an exposed dummy hand, and a choice of trump rather than a turned card.
Auction Bridge followed in the 1900s, adding competitive bidding for the right to declare. The modern game arrived in 1925, when the American financier Harold Vanderbilt worked out the vulnerability and slam-bonus scoring that made bidding accurately matter more than bidding high — the moment Contract Bridge became a distinct game. Ely Culbertson then turned it into a mass phenomenon through the 1930s with his bidding system and relentless publicity, and Charles Goren's point-count method became the standard teaching text in the decades after. The American Contract Bridge League and the World Bridge Federation have governed tournament play since.
Questions people ask about Bridge
- Why is one hand played face up?
- After the opening lead, the declarer’s partner becomes the dummy and lays their cards on the table. The declarer then plays both hands. It means half the game is played with far more information than a normal card game gives you, which is why Bridge rewards analysis over guessing.
- What does a contract of 4 hearts actually mean?
- It promises that your side will win ten tricks — four over the baseline six — with hearts as trump. Bids are always stated as tricks above six, a convention inherited from Whist, where six tricks was the break-even point.
- Who becomes the declarer?
- The player on the winning side who first named the final contract’s strain, not necessarily the one who made the last bid. If your partner opened 1 spade and you later bid 4 spades, your partner declares.
- What does doubling do?
- It increases the points at stake on the current contract without changing it. If the contract fails, the defenders score considerably more; if it succeeds, the declaring side does. A new higher bid cancels any pending double.
- What is vulnerability?
- A side becomes vulnerable once it has won one of the up-to-three games in a rubber. Vulnerable sides earn bigger bonuses for slams and successful doubled contracts, but pay much heavier penalties for failing.
- Is Bridge too hard to start with?
- The mechanics of trick-taking take about ten minutes to learn; it is the bidding that takes time. Playing a few hands and letting the auction happen around you is a perfectly reasonable way in, and Minibridge exists precisely to postpone the bidding until you are ready.
- How does a rubber end?
- When one side wins its second game. All points above and below the line are then totalled, the rubber bonus is added, and the higher total wins — so it is possible to win two games and still lose the rubber on points.